I’ve been taking in a lot of different information lately to help me develop a plan for 2016. I thought I would keep a running log in this post for anyone that is interested in learning more about training, health, etc.
- The Training Beta Podcast – the climber/nutritionist host Neely Quinn interviews different climbers and trainers around what makes them tick. The podcasts featuring pro climbers aren’t as interesting to me. The climbers are so strong that most of what they say isn’t really applicable. The podcasts with trainers are much, much more interesting and relevant, particularly the episodes with Eric Horst, Steve Betchel and Steve Maisch. If you check it out and like the format, do yourself a favour and listen to the entire backlog of podcasts, there’s great stuff in there
- Becoming a Supple Leopard – a book written by PT and crossfitter Dr. Kelly Starrett about correct movement patterns. This one isn’t particular to any single field of sport but can be applied to most anything. Very helpful to assess your mobility (I’m shockingly inflexible through my hips) and use the proscribed mobility exercises to restore movement. Extremely thought provoking and immediately impactful.
- Steve Betchel – Steve is a trainer I was first exposed to via the Training Beta Podcast (see above). He seems to be very knowledgeable about training, incorporating strength training for climbing, and the different schools of thought on fingerboard use.
- Steve Maisch – the other Steve I heard on the TBP. Right now I’m interested in Steve for his approach to simplicity in hangboarding. Steve is also a fan of using ‘pinch blocks’ for training grip strength. A friend recommend this technique to me. I’ve been using this technique for a month and like it.
- The Rock Climbers Training Manual – a book written by Matt and Mark Anderson. It’s a periodized approach for getting better at rock climbing and I have decided to worship it as gospel for 2016. Prepare to be evangalized! Tip: If you’re in Canada MEC stocks the book so you don’t have to ship it over the border. This saves you ~$30.
- Dan John – besides having two first names, Dan is a strength and conditioning coach for high-level US athletes as well as being an American record holder in several throwing and lifting events AND a Fullbright scholar. Dan brings a simple and clear approach to writing about strength training to support other athletic endeavors. He caught my attention by writing that a skill-based athlete should be spending no more than 25% of their time training and 75% performing their sport. At least I think this was him….anyway, he’s great.
- Pavel Tsatsouline – Pavel is a Russian strength and conditioning coach who is widely credited with bringing kettlebell training to North America. I’ve recently switched from training in the gym to using kettlebells at home for convenience and simplicity. They’re also fun to swing around. Pavel has written a number of books on KB training that are both clear and really funny. For example, in his writing he calls everyone comrade and says things like ‘you don’t need to warm up forever, you’re not a pussy.’
- Dave MacLeod – Dave is a Scottish climber who crushes just about everything. I’ve written about him already so I’ll leave it at that, other than to reiterate that you should buy his book Make or Break.
That’s it for now, I’ll add items in as I read them, think of it like an organic bibliography.